Category: North America

Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe, California, USA

Lake Tahoe, altitude 6,225 feet, straddles the California-Nevada border in the dramatic Sierra Nevada mountains. The largest alpine lake in the USA, it is a sparkling jewel ringed by rugged peaks.

The Sierra Nevada mountains are special to me, as I have spent much time rock climbing in Yosemite Valley and hiking in this area.

On the first week of October in 1975, Judy and I took our three young children backpacking to the Desolation Wilderness Area high above Lake Tahoe.

Overnight, we had the first snow of the season. It was beautiful, but as we were not geared up for winter camping, we headed back down that morning.

The winter of 2016-17 had a snowpack 160% of normal, and the snow has persisted into the summer. As of June 16th, 2017, the Tioga Pass road from Yosemite Valley via Tuolumne Meadows was still closed due to heavy snowpack. The mountains ringing Lake Tahoe were still heavy with snow.

Merganser Duck, Lake Tahoe.   –Lyndal Hubbard

I had hoped to hike and camp in the Desolation Wilderness and other high areas in June, but the heavy snowpack above 7500 feet elevation made that seem implausible.

To check out the actual conditions, my first hike was from Meeks Bay (6240 feet) to Crag Lake (7441 feet)  in the Desolation Wilderness, a hike of about 10 miles round trip, with a climb of about 1300 feet total. For day hiking, you simply fill out a permit form at the trailhead (free) telling where you intend to hike, keep one part with you, and drop one part in the box.

The trail begins up a valley, and is boggy in places. In the morning, there were lots of bugs–glad I packed my bug headnet. Further up, as it climbs the hill above Meeks Creek, it is mostly dry and bug-free. Most of the trail is a pleasant 10% grade without steps, which is easy on your knees. The trail could be hiked in athletic shoes, but the wet patches and snow make waterproof mountain boots a better choice.

The creek was in full flood, and the sound of the rapids is pleasant. At one point you must cross the wide creek on a log bridge, which was damaged by winter flooding: two of the logs are washed sideways, and one is partially broken. However, you can cross with care. The snow was packed and easy to walk on.

 

Meeks Creek, Lake Tahoe, California from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

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Crag Lake. There was still snow on the surface of the lake at the edges.

As it turns out, camping at Crag Lake is already possible, as there are many suitable areas for tents that have no snow cover. If I had come with my tent and gear, I could have stayed (assuming I had obtained a permit!) I wish that I had, as it is lovely, and I would have had it to myself.

I tried a side hike on the Lake Genevieve trail toward the Pacific Crest Trail, but after a mile, the snow coverage increased, and I decided that I did not have the time/range that day, so I turned back. My hike wound up 11 miles and 1750 feet of climb.

The Sierra Nevada has pristine and dramatic rock formations and towering trees that are among the finest in the world. I’m pleased to get back into the back country and see the mountains of my youth again.

Good reading: The Big Rock Candy Mountain by Wallace Stegner.

As I drank my morning coffee, a small brown bear ambled up to the door leading in from the patio, stood up, and tried to open the lever handle. Fortunately, the door was locked. Earlier this year, another (perhaps the same?) bear had opened this door, come in, cleaned out the refrigerator and generally made a mess. Since then, the doors are kept locked day and night!

This morning, I headed up on the old Donner Pass Road to Donner Summit, to try hiking the ‘Mount Judah Loop’ trail. The snowpack may prevent this.

Much of this loop is on the Pacific Crest Trail, which stretches from Mexico to Canada. The scenery on the way is dramatic. On the mountainside across the way you can see the snowsheds built to protect the railroad tracks.

Donner Lake

 

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Not far from the trailhead, a section of trail was covered by a long steep snowslope. Crossing such a slope, you really should have crampons (removable set of spikes) on your boots, and an ice axe in your hands, because if you start sliding, you likely will not be able to stop. When you do this on purpose, it is called glissading, and is great fun. Doing it by accident can kill you. In this case, you’d wind up catapulted onto a big rock pile at the bottom.

Some people had kicked boot notches in the slope, and by following these carefully (and improving them), I was able to cross.

Ahead, the trail was mostly free of snow, climbing gradually toward the winter ski slopes of Sugarbowl Ski resort.

Unfortunately, after about 1 ½ miles, the patches of snow became nearly continuous, and without GPS it would have been impossible to stay on the trail route. I picked up a 3′ piece of broken bamboo trail marker, and used it as a crude ice axe just in case. It became clear that the upper trail would not be much fun to follow like this, so I turned back. I doubt that anyone will do the complete PCT this season.

Near the trailhead there are some old abandoned original train tunnels that may be walked through, so I did. Blasting these through the granite mountains back in the 1800s was quite a feat.

Union Pacific Railroad tunnel

Instead of detailing every hike I did in the Lake Tahoe area, I will include some specifics of interest, as well as more photo collages of this marvelous, spectacularly beautiful area.

Today I went stand-up paddleboarding for the first time, on Lake Tahoe:

A dear hiking friend literally made me do this (against my protestations that I had come here to hike). I must admit that the cold waters of this snow-melt fed deep alpine lake gave me pause. However, the reality was much different than I expected. I have windsurfed, so standing up on a board was not a new skill. It takes a bit of balance, but is not very difficult.

My initial thoughts were essentially “why do people spend hours doing this rather slow thing??” (of course, others may think this of the hiking I do so much of) Well, maybe because it is really beautiful and peaceful out there? I found paddleboarding to be a bit like meditation.

I still prefer hiking, but I now see the attraction, and may do it from time to time.

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I was a bit early for the prime wildflower season after this unusually heavy snow winter, but there were already many beautiful flowers to see.

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This area is so dramatic that I wish I could stay a few more months. However, it is time to move on to another adventure.

 

 

In 1967, Tassajara was established as the location for the first Zen training monastery outside of Japan. It is an iconic destination deep in the rugged mountains east of Big Sur, south of Monterey, California, USA. I will make this an exceptionally long and detailed report with lots of pictures.

Though Judy and I knew about Tassajara, it never seemed practical to go there. In the Day, we had three children to take care of under 10 years old, and not a lot of money. Later, we had worked our way up and had more money, and the children were grown, but foreign countries beckoned. I also was more interested in hot springs and Buddhism than Judy.

It seemed time to finally go visit this place, one of of the few ways to drive into the heart of the rugged mountains in this area, and an ideal base for hiking, hot springing, reading, and getting centered.

Tassajara Hot Springs were known to local Indians hundreds of years ago. News reports I read in the archives there held that Indians had come from as far away as Oregon to partake of the healing waters. I rather doubt these accounts. However, beginning in the 1860s, the springs were known to local pioneers, and soon Tassajara became a resort destination (one rather a challenge to go to, as you had to go by horse-drawn stage and then horseback to get there). The waters were sent for testing, and had 32 mineral elements, the most of any springs in the USA, and the waters were reputed to heal just about any ailment. By 1900, there was a 40 room hotel there, and many cabins. It became a popular resort destination in spite of the difficulty of access. Then, in 1949, a wildfire burned down that hotel, and many of the cabins.

In order to get to Tassajara today, you have to go to the far upper end of the Carmel Valley, south of Monterey, California, and then climb about 3500 feet on 14 mile long rough gravel road to an elevation of over 4800 feet. Then, you drop on an average grade of 14% (very steep) or more down into Tassajara. While 4WDs are recommended,  as I am experienced on rough gravel roads, I was able to safely do it in dry weather in a normal sedan. In wet weather, that would have been impossible.

From May till September, the San Francisco Zen Center, which owns and operates Tassajara, opens the grounds to guests as a way to raise funds for the Zen training program the rest of the year.

There are a variety of accomodations available (see link above). I stayed in what are known as the “Pine Cabins”.

My room was simple, with a comfortable bed, a separate bathroom, and an outside deck overlooking Tassajara creek.

The hot pool area was a short walk up the creek, and had separate men’s and women’s areas. You leave your shoes outside, and are required to shower off with soap before entering the pools to keep the water clean and fresh.

You must shower and wash with soap prior to using the bath, to keep the water clean. Tassajara spring water is 140°F as it comes out of the rocks, so it must be mixed with spring water to achieve about a 106°F temperature.

A faint odor of sulphur greets you, so you know this is not just a hot tub. There are also outdoor pools at 101°F

as well as a most unusual steam room. A pool of the 140°F water lies under the redwood decking, and the natural steam rises from it, heating the stone walled room.

Tassajara provides three ample vegetarian meals a day for guests.

Today’s lunch was lentil soup, fresh baked bread, complex salad, and a cookie. It was good! Breakfasts and lunches were simple, dinners more elaborate. All in all, very good and tasty food.

 

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The Zendō. (In Zen Buddhism, the zendō is a spiritual dōjō where zazen (sitting meditation) is practiced)

drum from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

There are a few local hikes available. My first was to the Wind Caves, about 5 1/2 miles and 1700 feet in elevation climb.
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The dramatic view from inside one of the larger Wind Caves in the sandstone cliff.

Another hike of similar length (3-4 hours) is the Horse Pasture trail.

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Near the end, as you circle back to Tassajara, you need to remove your boots and walk knee deep across the creek four times.

And a last small walk is the ‘memorial trail’

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Tassajara waterfall from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

The serpent in the garden? A baby. I relocated him off the path out of (our) harm’s way.

If you wish to bath in Tassajara Creek, you can walk 8/10s of a mile downstream, crossing the creek four times, to the ‘Narrows’

 

narrows from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

The waters of Tassajara Creek are clear, pure and…invigorating. About 50°F invigorating.

In the library near the Zendō, I found several of my favorite books from many years ago by Robert Johnson, a Jungian therapist. Titled “He”, “She”, “We”, “Owning your own Shadow”, and “Transitions”, there is much wisdom therein. I took time to re-read them. Here are a few quotes:

“To transform opposition into paradox is to allow both sides of an issue, both pairs of opposites, to exist in equal dignity and worth.” We need to do this in order to heal our society, so we can see the full truth, not just one side of it.

“The shadow consists of those aspects of your character that belong to you but that have not been given any conscious place in your life…assimilating one’s shadow is the art of catching up on those facets of life that have not been lived out adequately.”

This includes integrating your anima (the feminine part of your personality if you are a man) or your animus (the masculine part of your personality if you are a woman) with your male or female identity. It is essential to being whole and balanced.

“The persona is what we would like to be and how we wish to be seen by the world. It is our psychological clothing”

“The ego is what we are and know about consciously. The shadow is that part of us we fail to see or know.”

The path that I have embarked upon is that of owning my own shadow.

Back in California, the weather was glorious. Northern California in the spring and summer often has sunny, pleasant days with light breezes, shirtsleeve temperatures, and puffy cumulus clouds in a deep blue sky. At its best, there are few places in the world that are more appealing.

Sitting outside with my 10 year old grandson Jack, I noticed a four engine prop plane flying over the hills at about 2,000 foot altitude. Jack identified it as a B17 Flying Fortress bomber from World War II. He said he had been inside one when they were on tour, and that you could get to ride in one if you wished.

Though it was Memorial Day weekend, I decided to try to get a flight that weekend. We were lucky, and set off the next day to Moffett Field, the former home of NASA and three dirigible hangars.

The Collings Foundation has taken on the mission of restoring and keeping a number of vintage WWII airplanes in airworthy condition, and taking them around the country on exhibition.

The money that they raise by charging for flights supports their restoration work. I decided to chip in and take Jack along with me on a B17 flight.

The B17 was one of the workhorse bombers that helped win the second World War. It was fast and durable, and dropped more bombs than any other bomber in WWII. More than 12,000 were made by Boeing. Just 7 are still airworthy, and having a chance to fly in one was a thrill.

The B17 had 12 .50 caliber machine guns to defend itself. This one is in the tail. Others stuck out from openings in the sides of the plane, and one ‘ball turret’ one popped out of the bottom of the fuselage. It’s hard to imagine crouching inside that one, turning it around 360° to fire at attackers.

There were other planes in operation there. A P51 Mustang fighter plane flew along to escort the bomber squadrons.

On the left is a B25 bomber.

P51Mustang from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

There also was a big old B24 bomber that survived 130 missions.

At last our turn to fly arrived, and we climbed into the rather small door. Ten people got to ride at one time. We all sat on the floor and buckled in for takeoff.

 

B17G Flying Fortress from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

And now, time for takeoff:

B17GTakeoff from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

Directly behind Jack’s head is one of the .50 caliber machine guns.

The inside of the plane was bare bones military. You could see the structural beams of the plane, and touch the thin aluminum skin. The control cables run exposed along the ceiling, and we were sternly instructed to not touch them!

Soon, the four powerful engines roared to life, and off we went! It was a loud and powerful experience, speeding down the runway and then lifting off. Soon we were soaring high above the salt ponds of the San Francisco Bay.

As soon as we were airborne, we were allowed to unbuckle and walk around the plane. As there was movement and occasional turbulence, we were warned to always hold on to something.

Jack is looking out through one of the machine gun openings. The large caliber bullets in long chains looked ominous. We were glad that we did not have to go out to shoot and be shot at by such as these.

If you were courageous enough to walk forward over the bomb bay doors on this little bridge past a rack of bombs (hopefully disarmed), you could enter the radio room. There, the ceiling was open to the sky. You could stick a hand or your head up, but the wind was fierce and you had to be careful. Hats, sunglasses and cameras have been sucked out in the 120 mph wind.

Further up, you could watch the pilots at work, as long as you did not distract them in this busy flight area.

Below the cockpit and forward lay the bombardier’s cabin in the nose of the plane. There he sat, in a plexiglass bubble, with a better view than the pilots. From there he aimed at a target, and released the bombs at a precise time. It is a most impressive place to be if you enjoy heights and views.

Jack and I both went into this area. It was one of the highlights of the flight.

Those wooden boxes contained chains of .50 caliber bullets to feed the heavy machine guns.

3D view of the plane

This was a powerful experience, very unusual, and hard to explain. You felt the raw power of the aircraft, and also could feel a bit of what it must have been like to head off on a bombing mission in a fragile aluminum shell, knowing that your enemy would be firing bullets at you that would go through this shell (and you) like a knife through butter. It is a sobering experience, that though fascinating, does make you sense the seriousness and brutality of war. Jack’s comment on looking closely at the big bullets: “It’s sad that people can be this mean to each other.”

But, apart from that, it was a fabulous opportunity to fly in a vintage aircraft from 70 years ago. A great experience that brought us closer to the bare bones of aviation. In a passenger jet, you are in a cushy environment separated from the air rushing by at over 500 mph. Here, you felt it close to you, the power and the speed. Having just come off a month flying gliders in Arizona, it was a treat to experience another form of the flying that I have come to love. Being up there soaring with the hawks is always impressive.

B17GTaxiIn from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

Back on the ground 30 minutes later, we visited some other aircraft on display.

A fighter jet.

A Vietnam-era helicopter.

A spectator brought his vintage Russian sidecar motorcycle, a ‘Ural’

All in all, quite an adventure. I’m glad we made the effort and did this.

After 11 flights, I hit a day where all the instructors were fully booked, so I got a day off. I decided to head about an hour northeast to the Superstition Wilderness area and take a hike in the desert. There are various explanations for why these mountains are called ‘The Superstitions’. One is that some Apaches believe that the hole leading down into the lower world, or hell, is located in the Superstition Mountains.

Cactus blossom season is a great time to walk in the desert. In the morning, the temperatures were pleasant, around 60°F early, up to a maximum of 85°F by noon, but a nice breeze.  I hiked a nine mile loop. If I want to penetrate further in to this very big wilderness, I had better arrive at dawn and bring 2-3 liters of water. Winter or spring is best, as in summer, this area sizzles!
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The wild flowers in the desert are unusual and spectacular. Likewise the rock formations, very dramatic. This was a fun hike.

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I have decided to pay more attention to birds (the flowers of the sky, as reef fish are the flowers of the sea). I am now carrying around a good pair of binoculars. Today I saw what I think is a Cardinal here:

Beautiful!

There were a few days where it was too windy to soar comfortably, so I gave myself 2 days off to hike.

My next hike in The Superstitions was to the highest peak, Superstitions 5057. I started a bit late in the afternoon, and had to turn back before the summit to avoid being caught up there in the dark. Here are some pictures from that hike.

 

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An ‘Iron Cross Blister Bug’. Secrets a chemical that raises big blisters on your skin. Look but don’t touch!

One of the smallest owls, a ‘Burrowing Owl’ that lives in holes in the ground dug by other critters.

Possible future hike: Flatiron Peak, the most prominent peak area in the western Superstitions.

Flatiron Hike

In New Zealand, I began learning to soar in gliders with the Matamata Soaring Club. I have long wanted to learn to fly. I enjoyed my first seven flights in NZ.

Judy felt that private motor flying was an overly expensive, hazardous hobby, and so I respected her wishes and did not take up flying. Inexperienced private pilots fly at much greater risk than professionals.

Now that I am older and on my own, I began to consider pursuing this dream. A professional pilot friend suggested I look into gliding rather than motor flying. If you own a plane, and have somewhere to fly regularly, such as a vacation cabin, motor makes sense. Otherwise, all most private pilots can do is rent a plane, fly somewhere and have lunch, then fly back. They call it the ‘$100 hamburger’. Now, it probably is a ‘$200+ hamburger’.

Gliding, on the other hand, is largely done through a multitude of soaring clubs located all over the world. Motor pilots must wear headsets because of the motor noise, but gliders have only the sound of the air rushing by. Soaring strikes me as a rather peaceful activity, circling around like a hawk. My flights in New Zealand confirmed for me that soaring is as about as close as we can come to flying like a bird. Modern soaring planes are also a safer way to do this than parasailing or hang gliding.

Arizona has some of the most consistent good conditions for soaring. Gliders have no motor, and must rely on rising air (thermals) to stay up. A particular ‘sailport’ just south of Phoenix, Arizona has become a major training center, and that’s where I will be getting my flight instruction.

This might seem an odd spot for a glider airfield, but it was chosen by experienced soaring pilots. The nearby Estrella mountains provide favorable lift winds, and it is free of the air traffic complications of Phoenix.

This is my home base for the next 4 weeks.

The Estrella mountains rise up in the distance.

AZ Soaring owns 15 sailplanes based here.

This is their favored training glider. It is not as sleek as what I flew in New Zealand, but apparently is easier for beginners to learn in. Tomorrow, I will find out.

Gliders like this are what I want to fly eventually. They are higher performance, but also require more skill to fly.

Learning to become a glider pilot is a bit like learning to drive a car. You must practice and practice until much of the co-ordination required becomes automatic, so your attention is freed for other tasks such as seeking thermals to climb in, planning where you will fly, keeping track of where the airfield is that you will land later, and avoiding colliding with any other planes.

In the hangar, a mechanic/soaring pilot was working on his higher tech glider, one that can pop up a propeller and launch itself without a tow. Simpler gliders cost as little as $60-70,000, not more than a premium car. This lovely plane is closer to a quarter million dollars.

It has elaborate avionics instruments.

This propeller pops up to enable the glider to take off on its own, or also fly a limited distance back to a landing place if the thermal lift fails. It then folds back into the glider.

Fortunately, it is not necessary to own your own glider. Soaring clubs around the world will allow licensed pilots to rent and fly club gliders of many types. My goal is to be able to do this when I am in any areas with especially good gliding opportunities.

 

Glider tow launch at Estrella Sailport from Mel Malinowski on Vimeo.

I’m now two days and eight flights in. The second day was windy and gusty, which was harder. This is not so easy! I have to have faith that I can rise to this challenge. I really enjoy being up there. My first flight instructor is a retired airline pilot.

The most southerly rail line in America passes through Maricopa, running from New Orleans to Los Angeles close to our southern border. Mile long freight trains can be seen running along the line that I overfly while training at the Estrella Sailport. This picture is of a ‘dome car’ that ran on this line as the ‘California Zephyr’. When I was 10, I rode in such a dome car from Portland, Oregon to San Francisco.

It’s time to move on. Soaring is a lot of fun, and in four weeks I made 100 flights. A few days were lost when weather fronts passed by and caused windy, turbulent conditions. I’ll have to make the Flatiron hike next time I am around this area.

One of my great surprises is the delicacy of control of a glider. There is a control ‘stick’ between your legs, which will move about 6″ in any direction. Most of the time, however, you move it very little once you are skilled. I was taught to hold it very lightly between my thumb and just two fingers. The major obstacle is learning to not over-control and oscillate. With time, you come to fly instinctively, which is essential, as you cannot react fast enough to correct as you should if your brain is in the way. You fly like you drive or walk, using ‘muscle memory’. My ability to do this improved greatly during my training in Arizona.

Soaring is a lovely experience, unlike any other I have every had. I’m very pleased to be able to get up there and fly.

Learning how to control the glider as you take off and land is the biggest challenge. I am getting better at this, but still need more practice. I hope to be able to fly gliders occasionally when I am near a soaring club wherever I travel.

Time to visit New York City again. Any new pictures and stories will be added to my previous New York post. Next up: hiking in the Sierra mountains near Lake Tahoe, California.